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ossify

Commercial Companies
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Everything posted by ossify

  1. corner or cap means the pvc strip that they use to make a sharp corner edge for all your wall corners. without the corner or cap, your plaster will chip off easily when impacted. it's very cheap, but useful tool for marking up of prices you're getting smoked tell him bedroom plastering only $300 per bedroom, inclusive of corners. imagine in 1 day, 1 worker can plaster both your rooms and still have time to relax. labour cost = $100, material cost = $100. he charge you $1000 usually cove lights can only throw light for up to 4 ft effectively (unless you buy expensive tubes) so opposite would not be ideal as the mirror would be too far away. Perpendicular is the best. personally, hamburger lights (i presume you mean circular fluorescent lights) are quite old-fashioned ever considered using tube light inside your false ceiling? 2x 4ft tube is more than enough for you, instead of 4x 2 tube downlights. use prismatic diffuser sheets to spread the light. please use Blum, tell your contractor you want Blum, see how much he mark up (if more than $200, get it yourself), then ask your contractor how many of each hinge you need to buy and buy them from the ubi warehouse (ask for discount) and pass to contractor to install. Don't wait till after the carpentry is done. You have to worry about wrong dimensions, filling up of drilled holes, getting another carpenter to install for you. Mirrors would be useful inside the cove. Contractors won't do this.. but I always thought it would make more sense to have mirrors in the cove like this. (black: ceiling, blue: false ceiling, red: mirror)
  2. I only paid for hacking of walls. The brown arch was in the way of a wall that was to be hacked. I was quoted $1k for hacking and removal of all wood items in my house (arch, 7m feature wall, wall cabinets, build-in wardrobes. I don't feel it's worth paying $1k for hacking wood so I decided to just pay for wall hacking only. A mobile induction cooker hob is 1) easily replaceable 2) mobile 3) portable 4) uses less electricity 5) about 90% cheaper ($78 compared to $1000) 6) raised for easier cooking 7) uses normal 13A power sockets instead of 15A sockets as for the hood, i am strongly considering not getting one as 1) not deep-frying 2) waste of space 3) expensive 4) uses electricity 5) requires maintenance yes, my other quote for hacking of walls only was $1600. that's my final invoice for hacking and clearing debris. $1000.
  3. Day 2 continued hacking by same hacker, 2 new bangladeshi workers appeared to help out with the removal of debris. at noon time at evening time overall, very efficient use of workers. 2 workers can clear all the debris in 1 day. was slightly annoyed that they put their things on my furniture but good thing is that it was already wrapped up in plastic. bad thing is that i saw a small opening in my plastic wrapping at the end of day, good thing no scratches, but quite dusty. sadly, cannot handover due to hacker miscommunication or forget, one "pillar" supposed to be hacked but wasn't hacked. also, one part of the wall at MBR door was not supposed to be hacked but contractor told me it dropped when hacking nearby wall. oh well, i guess i have to accept that walls fall unpredictably i'll just rebuild it, not much damage done. 15cm by 15cm "pillar" supposed to be hacked when i pointed out this mistake, contractor said it cannot be hacked due to metal structure, but i looked at it and pointed out that it's hollow. then he agreed with me and called up the hacker to clarify. anyway, hacker will finish hacking tomorrow, handover postponed to tomorrow,
  4. you shall see don't worry, i'll put in the prices for the works done.
  5. me too my layout changed quite a lot from my initial layout actually i feel quite bad, it's like i "used" the IDs to firm up what I want before getting contractors to quote for me. but in the end, never sign up with any contractors, DIY instead
  6. if you can, ask for separate quote for supplying and for installing. if their supply is expensive, you might just want to get it yourself. if their installing is expensive, you might just want to subcon it out
  7. these kind of quotations are called "fishing" they give 10 clients this kind of quotations, if just 1 bites, they already earn enough for 6 months of vacation
  8. this quote has a 40% profit margin, can buy car you hack less than 10 ft of wall already $1350. I hack 50 ft of wall only $1000. my piece of advice, get someone else.
  9. second contractor can only meet me tomorrow evening.. can show him a house without walls first contractor called me up today to let me know that tonight can handover. very efficient. 2 days work earn $1k if i DIY hacking, will only cost me at most $400. but too bad i don't have HDB license will post pics tonight.
  10. even if you close both eyes on replacement cost, make sure that it can be DIY. otherwise if you call someone to do for you, have to pay even more. there are some downlights that you can replace by yourself. i remember reading about it, but never note down because i don't want to have downlights. something about being able to rotate 45 degrees. About T5 and T8, I recommend you to read this, rather outdated but gives good basic info. generally 4ft T5 28W, 4ft T8 32W. there are cheaper variants of T5 from china (doesn't last but contractor will usually give this for maximum profit) and expensive variants, like HO, Watt-miser, HE, etc. if you're not intending to use it, why pay to install so many things that are used minimally should get the cheapest. things used often should get the best quality. eg. good drawer sliding mechanisms, very impt. i am posting daily pics on my blog today day 2 of hacking. there are luminaires that have mirrors incorporated. these cost more than normal holders.
  11. all the items i wanted were sold out by the time i go there after work. oh well, guess you have to go at 10am or so to buy them
  12. welcome to RT! floorplan pls
  13. annjoy, 3d drawings may look nice, but they are not drawn to scale (ie. not realistic) so when implemented, it won't look like what you saw. i suggest you ask them to draw one that is to scale. at least space planning (first thing any ID willl do) should be to scale. Your 3D drawing of the MBR is also another point of concern. It is also not drawn to scale. The bed looks like king size and your wardrobe looks quite deep. Are you sure you have such a big space to put your 1.2m vanity area? even if you put them side by side, 1.2m (vanity) + 0.6m (wardrobe) + 2m (bed) is already 3.8m Your bedroom's width (when bare) is only 4m. that means you have 20cm of space between your bed and your wardrobe and no space between your bed and the planter box area. If you want to put side tables on both side of your bed, you can have 10cm wide side table on each side. Not practical oh yah, please be very careful. personally, i would ask the police if they can help me clear these "unauthorised people" in my home. also hope you are still holding on the agent's commission. no completion, no money
  14. so far all the items i bought from ikea in my signature are AS-IS items, except for the klippan sofa which is from e-bay they are all flawless (at least in my eyes) except for one which was damaged due to careless delivery (which i will most likely be fully compensated for)
  15. I remember a fan guy telling me to give at least 4ft clearance between the cove light and the edge of the fan blade, to minimize shadows. If I am not wrong, this means that cove light can project up to 4ft effectively.
  16. if you are buying doors to use as shelves, you have to be prepared that they may not serve the function properly. Some doors are quite flimsy so will not be able to hold heavy things. also, note where they chop the AS-IS logo, make sure that when you install it it's hidden
  17. usually $15, bought from AS-IS. so my black glass dining table costs $102 in total. $50 for 160x80cm galant black glass top, $20 for 160cm metal frame, $32 for 4 silver legs, adjustable between 60-90cm. All from AS-IS
  18. if you use a solid surface as a backing, it won't bend can get from ikea if you want cheap options
  19. i am having 2 T8s for my dining area, no mirror. 2 T5s would take less energy than 2 T8s, but 3 T5s would use more energy than 2 T8s Also, initial costs of T5s are higher than T8s and subsequent replacement costs of tubes/ballast cost more for T5s than T8s
  20. not sure if you had a response to this but i sure didn't see one so.. assuming you switch on the cove lights only (for ambient effect), the light will bounce off the ceiling in the direction of your floor or eyes. before it hits the floor or your eyes, the ceiling fan's blades will cut off light and you will see flickering of the lights. if you switch on the cove lights and the downlights at the same time, you will notice less flickering. most rice cookers emits steam so be careful when you use it. if your kitchen cabinet is above your rice cooker, there might be damage due to moisture personally, i prefer not to have a built-in oven, but i guess it's up to you make sure you supply enough amps to the oven. it would be pointless if the house trips whenever you bake something. yes it's cheap for a 42" full hd. i got a hd-ready plasma tv at 599 i am hacking 90% of my walls in my home and my permit was approved on the 4th working day after it was submitted. please check your MyHDB page to check when your application was submitted. also call the HDB officer in charge to expedite the approval of the application too. since you are hacking the utility room, which i presume is made up of structural walls, you need a PE to certify that it is hackable. they cost about $500 or so.
  21. i rather have cheap and modern do note your initial costs and replacement costs. 6 downlights cost about $130 more than 2 fluorescent tube. Replacement of a PLC costs about 5 times more than a tube. Replacement of a ballast costs about 20 times of a starter. looking at running costs only is not a good idea we shall see, it's all starting to take shape most of my hacking is done already
  22. i'll dress the tubes up, you'll see contractors always try to justify their high prices just get multiple quotes and tell them you can get it at this price. if don't match, then just remove from the to-do list (this only works if you haven't signed on the line yet or are allowed to make amendments) yes my house is small so white is important
  23. sounds like your ID is a new bird or doesn't want to do his work. ID is supposed to generate the the 3-D drawings, electrical plan, lighting plan, elevation plan, the dimensions of each furniture, position of every fixture with dimensions included, laminate/wallpaper/paint colour plan, the water piping plan, aircon plan, electrical appliance plan. if the ID can't do these, maybe the ID is actually a contractor charging ID rates. i know IDs that do these things after customers sign up with them. that's why you pay them so much. as for me, i already know what i want, and am prepared to make it happen. so i don't need an ID, i need workers with skills
  24. bought 4 silver A-legs for my dining table at $8 each Min. height: 60 cm Max. height: 90 cm Max. load: 60 kg (per leg) Made of: Steel, Epoxy/polyester powder coating
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