ossify

i saw some expensive fridges that open on the right but very expensive i decided to buy this one that opens in front instead... 0.8m is very safe, but it's up to you If your space is 4m, and you allow 0.8m for fridge, you need to pay for 3.2m of kitchen cabinet space. 3.2m is around 3.3m or 11 feet. your ID will charge you the same for 3.2m or 3.3m cabinet (if you don't believe me, ask your ID) so my advice is to get 3.3m cabinet. You should re-measure your space. Is it exactly 4m or slightly bigger? If you allocate 3.3m cabinet, what's the remaining space for fridge? If you want to be very precise, is your floor and vertical wall beside the fridge perpendicular? if not, you need to compensate for it. eg. my MBR wall is off level. my wardrobe backing wall is level. my door wall is level. the length between the walls is 2925mm, my wardrobe is 2900mm. That 25mm is useful to compensate for my non-level MBR wall.

well, kind of. i pay by man hours, so... the faster they take to do it, the lesser i pay. grind and plaster is much faster than hack (or rather chip because you can't hack the RC beam, can only chip off the tiles individually), grind and plaster. actually the thickness is the same. if you hack, you need to cement screed smooth (which is already 1 tile thick) before you can plaster. if you grind, and plaster, it's the same.

why not just link up a motion sensor to the cctv? when senses motion outside, it records. no motion, no record momo13, if you put cctv outside your home, it's technically not allowed because you are not leasing the "land" outside your door

i just read this again and realised something.. who told you that you cannot use normal plaster for kitchen wall? against hdb regulations? are you sure? i don't see any mention about plastering kitchen walls on hdb's regulations. sounds to me like your contractor is chopping carrot FROM http://www.hdb.gov.sg/fi10/fi10205p.nsf/WP...ed?OpenDocument ps. one contractor quoted me $840 for cement plastering over existing kitchen wall tiles. i didn't accept it but just a figure i'm giving you to compare. personally, i wouldn't pay more than $300 for it. $400 if workmanship is good.

i don't want to hack all my bathroom wall because tiles cost money so if can keep, i'll keep. just overlay the ugly colours grinding 1 wall 2.4m by 2.4m takes about 30min, 1 guy, 1 angle cutter. if your contractor want to chop you for grinding, you can DIY it angle cutter from carrefour $50 only. you tell the contractor "nevermind lah, i grind for you, you minus off the $200" using cement to overlay on tile will just make your tile very thick. imagine tile + cement + tile. compare to tile + tile. yes of course must get costing for both options then consider. if no tiles, can always use acrylic panels or glass panels from ikea

i can't seem to see your flickr pics

second electrician/plumber quoted me $2100 for the above works (they supply wires, casing, db box, etc) except for switches which i will be buying myself. I seriously doubt the materials will cost $900.... think i'll stick with the 1st electrical quote. was quoted $900 for plumbing with 9 water outlets, install WC, tap and waste pipe system, 2 basin, 1 sink, 2 instant heater. still waiting for 2nd quotation for plumbing.

Congrats! your HDB officer must have just come back from leave

this is exactly one of the reason why i didn't want to get an ID. and there's no such thing as a "best tiler in town". if you are able to subcon out the tiling works (ie. take out tiling from the contract), pm me for tiling contact. but most likely they won't let you take out tiling... cos they can chop big carrot with tiling. personally, i think they need 3 weeks to secure the cheapest tiler most welcome. i haven't bought a fridge yet, but i am eyeing this one at $1000 Hitachi R-SF37SWPS 4-Door Solfege with A.I. Inverter Compressor & Nano Titanium Technology. Gross Capacity 438Litres 590W x 1798H x 615D I allocated 66cm for 59cm required. 3.5cm on both sides allowance should be sufficient. you are giving 10cm allowance, which seems rather big, imho. maybe you can ask around what's the optimal allowance according to http://www.thathomesite.com/forums/load/ki...24128413.html?6 1cm is more than enough but it really depends on how the fridge opens. check how much allowance you need by opening the door and measuring the swing, check the instruction manual of the fridge to see how much minimum space allowance is recommended by the manufacturer. ANOTHER IMPT THING! i noticed your fridge is on the left! most fridges open on the left! so it would be better for you to have a fridge that opens on the right since your food prep is on the right. my fridge is on the left too so i immediately ruled out all fridges that opens on the left (most of them). you think about it and try it out.

I can start tiling already but haven't buy tiles yet (was only told the number of tiles to buy yesterday). Only free to buy tiles this thursday and tiles will be delivered this Sat. Hence, tiling will only start on Sat I haven't done electrical yet... But my aircon guy can only install aircon trunking when plastering is done. So the progression of works is as follows: 1) general plastering and painting 2) lay aircon trunking 3) do electrical 4) replaster and paint of affected areas 5) install compressor/fcu I bought panasonic system 3 non-inverter for 1699+150 for bracket (it's all in my sig) from Natural Cool (well established public listed aircon company supplying to commercial and residential). Installation is the most critical part of the process so make sure your installers are good.

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wanted to share how you can convert a tiled surface into a plastered surface without hacking of tiles Before (notice the blue tiles on the beam at the back in the kitchen?) After (see how smooth it is after plastering?)

not exactly. my kitchen tiles were not hacked. they just grind it and plaster over it. quite interesting huh hack and screed and plaster also can.. but generate more waste and costs more. up to you which route you want to do. i posted it here

Day 14 4 men came today, continued with shaping of walls, scrapping of wall paint, door shaping and started plastering Total cost for the day's work: $400 Hacking 50ft walls and clearing of debris: $1000 Accumulated cost for labour: $2750 (including clearing of debris) Accumulated cost for raw materials: $1338.5 Total reno bill as of now: $5088.5 Met the aircon guy already, planned the route for refrigerant and drainage. Will be doing installation of trunking first once all plastering done, and will then do electrical and 2nd installation of aircon will come after electrical is up. Will be meeting the laminate lady later to do site measurement.

the fridge i am getting is 60cm wide, as my kitchen is small. do you really need 90cm for fridge? big family of 6? if you allocate 0.7m, then keep it at 0.7m, not 0.9m. extra space looks weird go fridge shopping to decide what width you want to have. fridge/sink/hob/chute is a better plan make sure the allowance between hob and chute of 0.2m is not too tight, make sure that the rubbish chute can open and you can throw full bags of rubbish in. i think this may be a problem for 0.2m. if you want to increase to 0.3m, you can decrease distance between fridge and hob to 0.3m or 0.2m. 0.8m of space between sink and hob should be sufficient for food prep

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i see, then it's not a beam, it's just a brick wall, that's why can drill my beam has steel inside, cannot drill or else my flat collapse please go for a spa and relax!!! conc HCl is bad for your health... don't play play. you pay them to do it, let them do it.

Please consider the width of your bathroom, the width of the white tile and the width of 2 or 3 mosaic tile. It would be good if your ID can give you an elevation sketch of how the tiling will look like. You might not like it if your white tile ends off abruptly at the corner of your bathroom. Ask him to sketch one with 2 mosaic tile and one with 3 mosaic tile. Or if he's lazy, you can DIY sketch it and ask him to give $100 discount Your kitchen does not have the workspace triangle of fridge, prep, and cook. Yours is a straight line. It'll be annoying because your sink and your fridge are at opposite ends and your cooking area is in between. I would like to suggest putting your fridge in another spot but if that is not possible, then.. I suggest you take a look at the food prep area between your cooking area and your washing area. Is 50cm enough for you to prepare food? For me, it's not. Do you really need 50cm between cooking and fridge? 30cm is more than sufficient for me. 20cm minimum. I suggest you maximize the space between your sink and your cooking area so you can prepare food easily. But ensure that your sink doesn't block the rubbish chute. Personally, I feel your workspace is too cramped. Iron wrought? aluminium gate, 3ft x 7ft, cost around $450 to $500.

likely he rest for 1 week, tile for 1 week, then rest another week wonder how many days my tiling will take

hi amras, i am considering either singtel or starhub... we don't watch much tv, just surf occasionally. we have 2 singtel lines, which would you recommend?

i thought cannot go through beam... so weird. my contractor say cannot go through beam have to go around. how wide is your beam? 30cm? or less? i would say it's impossible to have HO on 30th, given the things left undone. please don't do anything yourself, it may make things worse. go for a spa and relax.

maybe he thought you're tiling your ceiling

ok i have to get a single lever for my mbr shower but don't want to spend too much on Hansgrohe my Hansgrohe shower head and my tap looks like this the following are the choices i am considering should i get left or right one?

Ronald, Designerhouse, 67586644, HDB licensed not doing grill/window, not doing carpentry, we shall see

maybe he wants you to go visit him