ossify

Day 38 installation of laminate was done in a day, by one man, from 9am-8pm Total cost for the day's work: $0 Hacking 50ft walls and clearing of debris: $1000 Accumulated cost for labour: $5500 (including clearing of debris) Accumulated cost for raw materials: $2340.21 Total reno bill as of now: $8840.21 Plumbing: $880 Electrical: $2000

Day 37 electrician came to install most of the lights and motors of the ceiling fans (i took these pics the day after they were installed ) Total cost for the day's work: $0 Hacking 50ft walls and clearing of debris: $1000 Accumulated cost for labour: $5500 (including clearing of debris) Accumulated cost for raw materials: $2340.21 Total reno bill as of now: $8840.21 Plumbing: $880 Electrical: $2000

option 2. more practical. you won't notice the door knobs after some time.

wow how much does Gateman V10 costs? hope they don't spray paint on you again

Sun Sun Glass took site measurement yesterday, expecting installation on next Monday (1 Feb) or Tuesday (2 Feb)

you can state your contractor and company here so that everyone can know their workmanship. please also list the problems you faced with them and what's their response when you feedback tot them it's true that pergo skirting is slanted so that you can have a end-cap. if they cut it straight for you, it will look odd as the colour doesn't match. (cut straight will show another colour which is the internal of the laminate) but the question is, where is your end-cap? your pics don't show the end-cap.

Following is a PM which I thought I should share here since it's rather useful info for everyone. ikea sub-cons the kitchen installation to another company. heard from my mom they are busy till after CNY, but i didn't ask them personally. the kitchen installers will provide services like cutting holes for sink/hob, installation of taps, etc. the pricelist you can get from ikea or you can call the company to check. if i am not wrong, they charge $25 pfr of your cabinet so my kitchen which is at the moment 12ft, would cost me $300 to fix. personally, i rather learn how to do it so that i can do it next time if i need to. save myself $300. i intend to get another 6ft of wall cabinets too as i can't wait for my carpenters to do it up for me since i need to install concealed switches asap (and my eubiq next tue or thu). for me, i am getting domjos so i don't need to cut a hole. i just have to cut a worktop into 2, so that i can put it on the left and right side of the sink. this task would cost me $200 (info from ikea kitchen staff) if i ask the kitchen installers to do it. what i did, was buy a wood circular blade for under $10, ask my workers to do it er.. i pay my workers $100 per day. cutting the wood takes about 30min inclusive of pasting the laminate and sanding it down. the pasting of laminates were not perfect in my case as they were not skilled in that. but it doesn't matter to me, because i will be putting the part where they laminate under the domjos sink so technically you don't see it at all. take note that if you get other sinks from ikea, most likely you need to overmount it (you can check with the kitchen installer about this) i bought the pragel worktop as they are dirt cheap. $95 for 246cm (or 8ft) worktop. i can replace it easily as and when needed. 1/8 the cost of the average solid surface. laminates all done, one man installed everything within the day from morning 9am to evening 8pm. bought wardrobe, besta cabinet, besta cabinet glass door. sadly wardrobe mirror sliding door and lilagen sinks out of stock, need to get next week. good thing is that it comes together with my lillagen sinks so i can get them to deliver together from ikea, should be very good, i don't remember seeing any exposed wood. i will spray it with acrylic if i see any, will check on monday argh! argh! 3.30 psf + GST i'll post the pics later Ya i fixed it myself. it's quite fun, save $300. Thanks

looks very ugly, ask them do all the way to cover door frame leh

bro, your study table really look very out of place glad you bought from newnyew, it's a good buy! ps. do you trade?

i think they protect themselves from a redo by asking you to accept it

wow you're a more diehard ikea fan than me

you have a unique style never see this before first time i see water pipe in trunking very refreshing

you should hide the drainage pipe too (i did it )

Day 36 plumbers came again to install heaters and WC Total cost for the day's work: $0 Hacking 50ft walls and clearing of debris: $1000 Accumulated cost for labour: $5500 (including clearing of debris) Accumulated cost for raw materials: $2340.21 Total reno bill as of now: $8840.21 Plumbing: $880 Electrical: $2000

welcome to RT big one here

aircon is beautifully done except for the cracked tile which is regrettable, plumbing is ongoing so wc and both heaters should work by end of day, but my vanity basins haven't arrived from ikea yet (no stock) and my kitchen basin can't be fixed yet as i need to make holes in the kitchen cabinet to accomodate the water inlet and outlet pipes. i need to buy 1 inch and 2 inch diameter drill bits for wood tonight. thurs and fri i'll be overseas for work, back on fri night, laminates should have been completed by then. fri night will need to buy my wardrobe, basins, besta cabinet 120cmx20cm sat: pay $ at flooroption and natural cool, drill hole in cabinet for entry of pipes, install toilet bi-fold door and mbr swing door. sun: rest mon: delivery and installation of ikea items, and v.hive items (need to make sure kitchen sink works by friday) tue: installation of eubiq (may be postponed to thu) wed&thu: tie up loose ends, probably need to improvise shower screen before glass doors are up. fri: movers will transport items over sat&sun: mad cleaning still owe electrician $1000, plumber $380

please just get 3 other recommended (from friends/relatives/renotalk) electricians to quote you and choose the cheapest one. ID's electrician is usually overpriced. i spent 2.2k on all my electrical works and 2k on eubiq power tracks cheaper than yours. buy from shop no warranty? who told you that? from choo chiang (and i believe most major distributors), if the switch is faulty within a week of purchase, you can replace 1 for 1. (so buy it a day or two before the electrician installs your switches/sockets) some electricians anyhow install till the switch spoil, but if it's not obviously due to electrician fault, the distributor will replace 1 for 1 at no cost. your ID trying to smoke you so he can chop your carrot.

design professional is good i almost got them to do my reno, almost

er.. did you ever ask for a sample of the laminate and do some scratch tests? try with sharp keys and a cleaver. mine scratched with a cleaver, but not with sharp keys. pergo (the expensive $7psf type, not the $4.5psf type) is the most scratch resistant surface while robina or $4.5psf pergo is 3 times less scratch resistant. i chose robina as it seems better in terms of water resistance (soaked in water for 2 days with no visible effects). if you bought the laminates via johnny, then you better ask johnny why they are so easily scratched? demand for discount or replacement with pergo/robina doubt he'll do replacement as that will cut his profits by about 2-3k your house doesn't look like liveable condition now... lack of privacy? my carpentry will be from ikea. not much anyways, i will be ordering my wardrobe on friday or sat so that they can deliver and install next mon or tue. most of my tv console is in already, left 2 more pieces which i don't intend to do first. i'm fixing up my kitchen cabinets now i suggest you get the ikea fully extendable drawers and pass them to the carpenter for good fit. otherwise sure have problems. carpenters are the builders. the ID is supposed to give you the 2D or 3D drawing according to your needs and specifications whilst knowing what can be done and what cannot be done (eg. a 3m wardrobe without any support in the middle ). seems like your ID isn't very... useful in your reno process. that's why i rather buy from ikea, despite people saying ikea isn't good. the thing is.. you need to know what to do. the cabinets are not protected from water at the back so smart and cheap thing would be using acrylic spray to waterproof the back part. or you could spend some money and wrap the back part with plastic sheet and silicone the sides (hmm maybe i should do that) good thing about ikea is that you decide the dimensions, you can change the setup if you're bored of it. it's modular so things can be replaced individually. i can replace my worktop for the whole kitchen at under $150 most people spend more than $1k on theirs. a sheet of templates just means that he's not customizing for you, he's just giving you pre-customized furniture. i don't know if it's normal practice, but it sure is time-saving for him one of the reasons why i rather DIY is that i make the decision to pay for things that i know i am getting. sometimes when people are paid in advance, the quality of after-service seems to be lacking. they rather do first, and ask you to accept it. if not, top up money. my 10ft wardrobe with sliding mirror doors will cost me about $1k. (not full height though, only 203cm)

i think it's cheaper i don't really see the neighbourhood stores selling it so i don't have a gauge of the "cheap" price. only see it at "selfix" which I consider as "expensive" shop selfix was selling at $50+ while online shopping on the website is at $30 like you, i also discover a lot of things some beforehand, some just in time, some too late. many lessons learnt. but it's an enjoyable process for me because i save $

huh? can drill but can shatter? then drill carefully lah! and use glass drill bit, not masonry drill bit... if shatter, replace at his own cost since it's his fault for not paying attention. you're moving in this thurs?! my house is in a similar stage of reno as yours and i am only able to move in next Fri my laminates will be done this Fri, after the lights/fans are up. as for the toilet wall tiles, you better tell him you do not want to see patched jobs after rectification the scratches would be a bit tricky... because you can't polish them away. only thing i know you can do is use a wood marker. your ID sure is not going to replace the scratched laminates, if that's what you're thinking too much $ scratches on tiles may be polish-able if your tiles are homogenous. your aircon men drills bigger holes than my plumbing man my mom was saying that the plumbing holes are big! i don't think so, but i didn't say anything

huh you mean the green colour cannot be removed? i thought it's just a protective sticker

That's a L bend, not a T-joint. in fact, 2 L bends. The L bends are required as the vertical pipes cannot be put at the corner since they cannot drill the pipe holders into the corner (don't ask me why nobody bothered to invent corner pipe holders) your painter haven't heard of masking tape? johnny should patch it up, it's easy i'm wondering why your laminate is up so soon.. laminate should be up at the last stage, just before carpentry. you need to plaster smooth your ceiling, wanna DIY? i can sell you plaster powder and plastering tools i like your piping, very artistic if he charges you for small things like this.. i have nothing to say. tell johnny if he wants to be fair to his workers, he should pay them more and pocket less is the glass tempered glass? if not, it can still be drilled. but you need to use drill bit meant for drilling glass. you better tell him what you want to rectify and how you want it to be done. since all these changes would mean less money in his pocket, he probably won't be happy about it.

mm i bought.. 10 switches (1 3g, 4 2g, 3 1g, 2 water heater), 1 scv, 2 sockets (1 single, 1 double), 2 connection unit (for connecting water heater), 1 aircon isolator for $165 in total Zencelo: 3gang $13.5, 2gang $9, 1gang $5.5, waterheater $20, doublesocket $12.8, singlesocket $8.5, scv $8.9 Clipsal WHD20 Isolator 20A for aircon $11.5 yes 15A is the max for HDB. however, they don't sell 15A switches or isolators. aircon isolator and water heater switch nowadays come at 20A. as long as your appliance is <20A, using 20A isolator/switch is not an issue. aircon isolator costs $11.50+GST. water heater switch nowadays can allow 20A, but your water heater itself should be 15A.

huh you mean it's your false ceiling that's wavy ah? why is it wavy? water infiltration? false ceiling a bit hard to plaster, in fact it's unheard of yes. of course la, otherwise you hire ID for what but if you have no ID like me, you can DIY, buy some painter's caulk, fill it up, and repaint btw, my price list for switches, all before GST. Zencelo: 3gang $13.5, 2gang $9, 1gang $5.5, waterheater $20, doublesocket $12.8, singlesocket $8.5, scv $8.9 Clipsal WHD20 Isolator 20A for aircon $11.5