Cyberkinetic

I bought mine at Ikea... ok, probably not going to last for yrs.. but it's ard $1.2k... think the model is Manstad or something similarly spelt.. L-shape fabric sofa-BED... the shorter side of the L-shape can be lifted up with storage underneath where we kept all the cushions when not in use. Best thing is that we kept it opened up as a sofa bed most of the time .. comfy to just chill on it.. Downside is that the fabric cannot be removed to wash.. so i workaround by getting various coloured flat bedsheets and just lay it over... to match my curtains... other than that.. i think the foam unlikely to last for many years... But other wise... LOVED and still loving it..

I used it on my bedroom walls... the light pink... can't really notice much difference.. won't use it again cos it stains easily...

Check out AMK Industrial Park 2... There's one shop there.. can custom cut marble and granite.. beside the hawker centre.

BOTH my toilets were leaking, ie. after flushing, and the water refills, it doesn't stops and water continues to trickle down from the flushing system.. As it was just 3 months old since we installed it... I called up H** K** and asked them to come.. was told initially they will come FOC, then called us again saying they will charge.. we held our stand and they eventually came..but not after trying to persuade us to pay for the transport.. geeshh.. irritating to be honest.. can't they just say something and keep to it? Anyway, the guy comes along, a rather friendly uncle i have to admit.. end up telling us that the fault is that we used those blue tablets that you throw into the water tank.. those Harpic or Kleen brand type of thing.. Was really surprised.. aren't those DESIGNED for toilet usage? Anyway, he replaced a little round piece of stuff which he wrote in the service chit as "sas pump" and that solves the problem. I'm still feeling rather bemused over it.. Have used the blue tablets at my parent's home for as long as i can remember and we never have such problem.. I do find it hard to believe.. Just wondering if anyone has simillar experience?

Am using Cif for cleaning up stain marks once in a while.. then after wipe clean, I will spray on the Pledge cleaner, citrus smell type(for wooden furniture) which leaves a layer of wax or silicon(not too sure what exactly). White solid top will be clean and also repels water.. does it about once every 2-3 weeks. *Recommended by the fellas who fix on my solid top*

Finally got my curtain and curtain rods up yesterday... well, actually I did it on Saturday, but left it till yesterday to hang it up. So far till now it's holding on good and seems secured enough. What I did was to use some of those "liquid nails" type of adhesive to stick the curtain rod holding bracket onto my window grilles' frame. This wasn't strong enough to hold the Ikea rods that I've got, which is made of metal. So I cut out pieces of thin metal sheet which i applied the same adhesive before wrapping over the brackets for added strength. That did the trick and after a day of drying, I put on the rods with the curtains and it worked. As an added safety measure, I tied fishing line on both ends as well as the middle of the rod and attach it to the window grilles. So even if the bracket gives way, the curtain rods and brackets won't fall to the ground and hurt anyone. Just checked on the joints before leaving for work and all are good, no signs of giving way .. YET.. lol... will see how it is later when I'm home today.. Attached some photos of my work.. ok, next up will be setting up of my garden.. lol... can't do work at home, do it OUTSIDE of home.. planning to have some sort of 2-3 levels of rack to grow some herbs and small potted flowers..

Hi, thanks for the replies, Gundamv: I've got the A+B thingy that I bought at People's Park a while ago.. Am also looking at using MaxBond which I've seen my contractor who used it before and it's one tough adhesive as far as I can see.. What I'm thinking of doing now is to fix the L-brackets that comes with my Ikea curtain rods onto the border of my window grilles... and as a precautionary measure, I am also planning to tie the rod and the brackets(somehow) onto the grille itself such that even in a failure of the bond, i won't have the whole rod dropping onto the floor. Santav: I wish it can be handle as easily as u mentioned.. it's some old chinese superstitious stuff that is preventing me from preceeding with the drilling and painting stuff. Anyway, very pleased now cos I managed to get my wall clock up! used those 3M hooks but 3 of them... one to hold the clock and the other two tied to the first.. so triple secured to prevent it from dropping.. haha.. so far so good.. just kiasu a bit, I put some rags below the clock in case something happens. haha.. Stay tuned for my curtain rods installation which i planned to do this week..

Hi all, my wife's pregnant before I can complete my renovation works in our house.. 2 common bedrooms unpainted and curtain rods not fixed up for the whole house. The old folks at home are banning me from doing any form of painting or drilling/nailing since we got to know abt the pregnancy... So in order not to get anyone upset and stressed over it, I've stopped all works since. The 2 rooms which is unpainted, i can probably live with it for now... the curtains is quite a necessity given that the morning and afternoon sun is turning my house into a furnace.. Been thinking of ways to have the curtains attached without drilling and fixing the curtain poles... Was thinking of using those clamps, C or G clamps, the small ones and just attach one to each end of the window grilles. Then pull a wire across and attach the curtains using those clips that is available at Ikea... Won't look very nice but at least can serve it's purpose to block the sunlight.. I also thought of using some super glue to attach those plastic hooks to the wall, but figure it probably won't hold as well and I will end up with falling curtains every now and then.. Any kind souls out there who can think of other ways to do it? Pls share your pointers with me yeah. Thanks!

No replies thus far, but anyway, contractor came and redo the grout lines again and I also get to hands on myself.. guess the reward is that now I know how to rectify grout lines in the future..

Hi am in urgent need of contacts for tiling contractors to help rectify issues with floor tiles, mainly the grout lines. My !@#@$% contractor made a mess of the floor tiles, initially with hollow corners in tiles which he had been taking his own sweet time to fix since last monday. And till date, after repeated visits, there's still a few more areas which is not resolved. Also the grout lines of the floor tiles turned grey at areas where he did the remedy works(injecting some chemical to fill up the hollow spots) which he got his tiler to scrap up and regrout. It's coming to 2 weeks since we highlighted the issues and still they can't resolve it. It's really a responsibility and professionalism issue. We were promised that they will fix up all the grout lines issues but after 2 visits by the tiler, which started to show a black face when we saw him, he basically just do the resolutions in bits and pieces. I've decided not to have him back in my house least he decides to sabotage it. Told contractor to get someone else to fix it asap and if he can't do so, I will get someone else to fix the issues and deduct from his final payment. Also locked up my house since the number lock in use at start of renovation can be opened by every tom dick or harry which comes by... electrician, plumber, carpenter, etc etc.. and we had shifted in most of the furniture and appliances. Gotta have some assurance for that. Pls help... this renovation is turning into a nightmare for us!

I just visited the site... those areas where they injected the chemical thingy, the grout colour is greyish.. i'm not sure if it's cos still wet from yestersday's work.. but 24hrs leow leh.. sianz.. now got patches of grey grout here and there.. Best thing was that contractor says it's not his fault for the uneven tiles, it's the tiles itself and not the workmanship... ****.. cos i got the tiles from the shop which he recommended and he concurred with our choices before we bought it. If it's not due to the stupid salary cap rule set by HDB, i'd be able to afford the marble flooring which i really liked.. anyway.. sorry abt it.. just in pretty lousy mood.. wedding's coming up in 2 over weeks and still we can't shift in..

But that's what my concern is... the white cement thingy is porous rite? I've seen my friend's and sis-in-law's place which are new and I mean literally brand new.. during the first big clean up before they shift in, while sweeping and mopping, the white grout lines all darkened to brown or grey due to the sweeping of the dirt across the grout lines and later on when using a wet mop, it more or less worsened the condition as the dirty water gets stuck. Takes a lot of effort to clean up.. Actually very regret using homogeneous tiles... should've just stick to those ceramic ones with the curved down edges.. my contractor's workmanship is so lousy, i've got tiles which ain't flat with each other and he blames it on tiles...

Cannot put water and oil based sealant then what? Dun put at all? I dun get it... what's his suggestion then? Just paint normal paint on top of the plastered surface? I suggest you seek 2nd or 3rd opinions... I put oil sealant on my plastered walls and it's been a month, no issues so far.. no bubbles or whatever.. So far, painted the ceilings with Matex white emulsion paint, as far as I notice, no issues. I'd gotten Berger's oil-based sealant initially and subsequently Nippon's oil-based sealant.. the difference is sooo obvious. The Berger's sealant is noticeably thicker and covers much better on the walls. The Nippon I got later, is so watery and upon painting on my walls, can still see those pencils and other markings. Given a choice, I'd get the Berger's again. It's a pain to remove when it gets on your skin, but that's probably the good part of it as well. Hopefully sticks better on the walls. hehe...

That's what I found from doing a Google search... I'm assuming that it can be purchased in SG since kewin's based in SG...

I dun think anyone will sign it.. hehe.. If it's aircon.. or in fact any other works, i think can check with your contractor on the schedule.. but if it's too much hassle to shift ard, i think just keep it offsite ba.. else u gotta run about to open up the door for them. Cheers

My concern is not about whether they will take away stuff...but more of whether they will damage it when doing their work. Maybe can also make sure u let your contractor know what u are bringing in..just a safeguard so at least if anything happens, he can't say he never seen those stuff before. Do u have a storeroom which u can lock? i think it's good enuf to keep them under lock in a room. Rgds

Understand your anger.. definitely can be longer than 1m... it's ridiculous to have 1m joints throughout... my thoughts is "more joints, more issues"... Suggest u pose the question to your contractor and see what he says... it's amazing to hear some of the things they say... no matter how illogical it may be... they say it without emotion whether true or not true. My case was that I wanted to keep the original pipes and everything ok until one day my contractor tells me pipe dunno why leak.. and end up we were more or less forced to change. Apologies if i sounded very negative on contractors.. so far have been dealing with less than acceptable ones... sianz..

I think there's more than 28 pieces just in my bedrooms... but yr contractor, i can't say good or bad... at least he changes the tiles.. mine? he just called up the sub-con and ask them to inject the chemical thingy.. which i dunno the long term effects... **** sickening lar.. I can say for sure, my contractor SUCKS...

I dunno what's right or wrong anymore with this guy(my contractor)... He's recommended by my wife's auntie so we trusted him from the beginning but things just kept turning out different from our expectations. And instead of helping us supervise and check on the reno works, end up we are the ones who had to keep updating him and telling him what's not right and what needs to be rectify. We're like his assistants.. That's why i say I can't be sure he's doing anything right at the moment.. This morning we checked the floor tiles and found many hollow pockets ... my wife pasted masking tape all over the floor for him to indicate the problem ones until he told us to stop tapping with the coin. He'll get someone down to inject some chemical glue or something to make them stick.. anyway, i posted separately in the reno works section. Hiaz...

Probably not... i guess it depends on how it was constructed... what i saw being done to mine is that they just mount it on top of my cabinet wooden structure and silicon the sides.. so it can be replaced easily. Again, I'm so sian with my contractor, mine might not be done the right way.. grr...

I guess it depends, I had my store constructed of partition board to save cost... and hollow blocks for the wall which partitions a section of the living room into part of my master bedroom(sound proofing). Cheers.

We were checking on the floor tiles this morning using the "coin tapping" method... and found quite a few tiles which sounded hollow at the corners. When the contractor came, and we showed it to him, he said it is common and acceptable to have slight hollow on the corners as the tilers will need to leave a little gap when they lay the tiles. Unless it is hollow in the main part of the tiles, else there's no need to do anything about it. Eventually he told us no need to tap anymore and that he will get the tiler to come and inject some chemical stuff into the corners by making little holes along the grout lines and injecting the stuff under the tiles(which according to him, acts like glue or something). Not convinced about what he said after all the incidents we've with him, so needed some other opinions on this. Many thanks in advance...

Hi Kewin, thanks for your advice.. may i know where can i get the DavidJones sealer? Cheers.

Having heard and seen white grout lines turning brown/greyish even when it's pretty new, I was wondering if I should apply grout sealer on my new homogeneous tiles which my contractor is arranging for his guys to polish and remove the surface wax. I figured there's no better time to do it than immediately after the polishing when the tiles is brand new. Used to see the grout sealer in DIY shops but I was over at AMK Hub and Yishun Point's but can't seem to find them anymore. Can anyone let me know where I can get them? Or is it necessary to apply(my contractor says no such thing-sealers which can keep grout lines white..anyway, i dun wish to talk to him too much... )? Any advice or suggestion much appreciated. Thanks.

How abt seeking a 2nd opinion from another company? Or in my case, i just got a resale flat, so what happened is that I kept the original compressor and used it for 2 of the lesser used rooms. And gotten a new 3in1 for the master bedroom and the living room. Cooling all rooms including living room was an issue for us as well. I was considering to go without aircon for the 2 common bedrooms which won't be used much. However my aircon guy suggested to reuse the old compressor and fan coils cos he said since minimal usage, should be ok and also take the opportunity of current reno works to do new pipings for the 2 common rooms. Next time in the near future, if needed, just change the compressor and fan coils if needed instead of hacking the walls and laying pipings then... Cheers.