Jump to content
Find Professionals    Deals    Get Quotations   Portfolios

Cyberkinetic

Members
  • Content Count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Cyberkinetic

  1. I've seen it happening at my friend's place... dizzying when watching tv with the shadows generated by the light shining on the fan blades... end up have to off the lights .. So when i got my ceiling fan, i ordered the lights that is fixed BELOW the fan... so when I on the fan, i will off other lights above the fan. Cheers.
  2. Hi, I tried applying those stickers in my bathroom and while it did worked with the added friction, the thing is that it isn't lasting... after a short while of use, within weeks, the strips started coming off... It is probably ok for bathrooms which doesn't do a lot of washing.. but mum washes clothes everyday in it.. Just my thoughts on using the stickers. Can get it from DIY shops.. comes in a roll like scotch tape... available in white or black.. maybe even transparent.. Cheers
  3. Hi, can you share the steps how you do the laminates? Probably the tools as well? I'm thinking of laminating my main door instead of painting it ... the plan is to strip down the old layers of paint and remove the decorative trimmings before putting on laminate of our choice. Many thanks. Cheers.
  4. Sorry, but just had to write it down cos I'm holding up a lot of frustration .. hehe.. reno not going to schedule and quality of work not as what I'm expecting..but anyway... I am currently doing my own painting of my new hse... it was newly plastered so I had to apply a layer of sealant before painting the top coat proper. Got my paint from a shop in Serangoon and was strongly recommended to use those usual rollers with the wooly type of material... I asked about the foam roller and the lady just told me not so good... use the standard one.. (but later on, while shopping in DIY shop.. i bought a foam roller thinking maybe of trying it out .. curious mah) Ok lor.. while i had done painting before, it was usually using brushes... so i just went ahead.. and the usual back breaking feelings were there as I painted using the rollers and using small brush to touch up the edges and corners... the end result was not very satisfying... with some little specks of dots and not a smooth surface as I had suspected with using rollers... Until last nite, as I start to paint the top coat of white paint, Matex... on my kitchen ceiling which already had the sealant on last week.. remembered the foam roller i bought.. decided to try it out.. woah... the DIFFERENCE... was happy because the foam roller was so much lighter and doesn't absorb that much paint, which even using it one hand with the long pole, i can do a decent paint job... the best thing is that the surface is pretty smooth... none of those little little specks and uneveness using the normal roller material. Last week, I spent one whole nite painting the kitchen ceiling with sealant... last nite, same time, I did TWO coats of the white paint... I din even need to use the small brush cos the foam roller with the straight edge manages to put paint on the edges and corners nicely... and went home without too much body aches.. I am gonna get another one for applying sealant to my other rooms... Lesson learnt... through the hard way... listen to advice.. but make sure it's someone u can trust and not just any sales person.. and nothing beats hands on experience. I'm not saying foam roller is necessarily better than the usual roller material... it could be the way I paint as well... just trying to offer a different point of view for those who are thinking of DIY painting and choosing painting tools.. Rgds.
  5. I can't remember the brand, but it is still available at DIY shops... just saw it yesterday. White bottle with blue wordings and graphics. When it is dry, feels pretty much the same, it's only when wet that u feel a little friction... Been a while since i applied it to the kitchen flooring at my parent's place... mum slipped twice on the wet floor... no issues since then... dunno it worked or she just being more careful nowadays. Rgds.
  6. Hi, it's GR-B399PLQ, we paid $699 for it... Can look for sales rep, Anthony at Funan. Friendly fella. Rgds.
  7. Hi, just to clarify, you are looking for a fridge with the door hinge on the left, meaning the door handle is on the right. Door opens swinging from right to left? I was hunting for quite a while until I found one from LG, exclusive model at Harvey Norman. Got it at the branch at Funan Centre. Suggest you make a trip to this branch as I went to the one at Novena and found the same model, but the sales staff over there told me I have to pay $150 to change the hinge. Anyway, I got it at Funan Branch and they have indicated it's FOC and will get it changed before delivering. It's a 2 door, tall and slim type. European models like F&P have models which can open both sides as well, but it's way too costly for us and also comes with a lengthy waiting period. So it was a no-brainer to get the LG. Check it out. Rgds.
  8. Thanks, I got in touch with Choo Chiang and they managed to find the MK boxes for me(they dun keep stock of it)...but didn't get it eventually... $1.20 for single and $4.20 for double.. Reason is we asked them to check for us if the MK boxes are the same colour/texture/material as the Slimline Plus models in our house and they told us after checking that it isn't. So we decided not to change (with $100 topup to the electrical guy)... probably have to just paint it over with the wall paint. at least only the face plate and the wall is 2 colours, and not 3 colours including the boxes... A bit disappointed la... but what to do? Rgds.
  9. Thank u Cloyn for your reply... Feels a little "cheated" though... Didn't expect to have it be different colour.. Doesn't make sense to change new ones then... and the 2 different colours really is very obvious.. wonder if I should just paint it the same as the wall colour so not so headache... Rgds.
  10. Hi, need clarification cos I just checked and found out my electrical contractor installed my new MK light switches and sockets..but the base casing is generic brand, CCM. Called my reno contractor and electrical contractor but was told it is standard practice and that MK does not make the base casings. That the quoted price is just for the top plate only. Is this practice common? If that's true, I'm still not satisfied cos the MK and the CCM aren't a good fit and the colour is different. Negotiating for him to at least make good on the fitting... Cheers.
  11. Have you tried Hoe Kee? I got my wash basin mounted to a cabinet there and the material used doesn't seemed to be wood, it seems like some synthetic material which they claimed is water proof. Can try calling them up to ask. Cheers.
  12. Hi Lawry and MrsPiglet, thanks for the advice. Noted duly... Meeting contractor this sunday morning to sort all these out.. Let's see how things turn out.. Best regards.
  13. Is there any difference in using water-based or oil-based sealant? Water based appeals more cos it should be easier to clean up... but just wondering if it will have the same effect... My hse is due for plastering in the next week and I intend to paint it myself... probably the most physical activity I do this yr.. hehe Thanks.
  14. Spoke to contractor again about removing the rockstone surface... he said not possible but they will scrap off those loose/flaky pieces before plastering. Happywolfie: I'm just worried abt possible cracks in the plastered surface due to the air pockets of those loose flaking rockstone layer.. lawry: Yup..definitely increase a little but probably not significant as the contractor told me it's a thin layer that they are applying.. i would believe so too as a thicker layer equals more cost... hehe... in such challenging times... i'd say they will apply as THIN a layer as they possibly can... The next thing that I'm pondering over is whether to have my aircon pipings and electrical wirings done before they plaster or the other way around... Any suggestions? Thanks.
  15. Hi, would like to find out if it is necessary for rockstone walls to be scrapped clean of the the rockstone surface before plastering is done to smoothen the walls? My contractor says there's no need to do that and he can just plaster OVER the rockstone surface. I'm not sure if he is pulling a fast one on me as I noticed that there's quite a few areas of the rockstone surface peeling due to removal of previous(i bought a resale flat) fixtures like wardrobe and tv console. I just feel that logically if the rockstone that is peeling ain't removed before plastering, it may cause problems over in the long run. Anyone with knowledge of plastering of walls can help? Many thanks in advance!
×