hihihi

plastic one very easy, those who makes signs can do it. Quick recall, Sim Lim Sq basement lift there got one shop doing this kinda stuff. metal one can ask those making metal gates to do. Quick recall, vendors like Pang Giap.

optional for the test. basically very easy, the guy just come and test some switches, test if short will trip the breaker. So easy, chop chop finish.

the impression i get from enbloc potential are super run-down state, while neighbouring blocks had upgraded.

bookmark. I have got 2 contacts for solar film from those adverts in my lift. PMed u.

Homefix will have sell those industrial strength velcro, very "sticky" and strong. My only concern would only be whether the mirror can be flat. otherwise the mirror image will be skewed.

bi-fold door market price is abt starting $180 to $250 that kind of pricing if u get direct from the supplier. More expensive ones u can find is without the bottom rail (i.e bottom no bi-fold frame, only 3 sides has frame like a "n", most likely is a top-hung bifold door). IMO, I don't advocate PD-door, coz to me, it's not necessary to have the PD's slide+push, install bi-fold just need to push. Afterall both PD and normal Bi-fold after folded is still the same 1 panel, no diff, personal preference. Some pple prefer hacking away the door frame then install the bi-fold door will look nicer/neater. But our new toilets 3 yrs cannot hack, coz high chance while removing the frame will crack the surrounding tiles.

u don't need to hack away the frame to do bi-fold door. The bi-fold door's frame can be installed onto the exsiting frame. Normal bi-fold door u won't see the hinge, it's hidden.

main door is usually a fire-proof door, extra costly. Of coz ask ID to change door, no need to even think abt it. Google for door suppliers, easily found.

outsider POV, change. It's quite silly of the renovator to admit they caused the crack.

wow, didn't know so much knowledge to learn on plywood alone. OT abit: I wanna do a low height wall. Centre empty, dimension (3ft x 3ft x 4inch). What kind of plywood should I tell the supplier to cut for me, what thickness ply, so that no warp and no worms problem over time? Intend to plaster the surface remove the wood grains before painting.

no choice. I also had this problem, write big big on the letter "OWNER HAD SHIFTED" and then return the mail. Also ever received red letter to chase bills. Then letters start to get lesser and lesser. Think the last letter received in their name is abt 2 yrs after they had shifted.

wirelessSG just forsake us

Fluorscent tube - T5 is the thinner one, T8 is the fatter one. - T8 2ft and 4ft are the most common (means u can buy easily downstairs at supermart). Other lengths are also usually available at hardware shop. So if your LBox length can be made up by either 2ft or 4ft tubes will be the best. - ask the shop to test the colour to let u see b4 purchase. Coz diff brand uses different names (e.g cool daylight). - T8 needs a starter + ballast. U can buy the bracket (i.e ballast will be hidden inside the bracket) or just the connector (linked by wire, ballast will be exposed). T5 is abit special.... not sure. Downlight - downlight comes with everything in one set. Electrician just need to connect the wire to the downlight, that's it. - when u buy, u can tell the guy u want what colour of light, then they'll band in the correct blub. - also got different wattage=different brightness. Timer - dunno, but could be abit complicated. Coz u also want a switch to be able to switch on/off the light beside the timer. Need something more hightech. Like the below:

normal glass mirror is restricted to like 8 feet coz there's a max size they make mirror. And also need to consider the factor of bringing it up to the unit. Lift cannot fit in, and also the higher risk of chipping and breakage. Coz once chipped, they have to replace the entire piece=$$$. Plastic mirror disadvantage is it's more prone to scratches. I'm also interested in using plastic mirror as well... cheaper is the key!

Here is a schematic on how to do the sliding door, picture taken from a brochure:

if something is made in japan, it will sure put big words there "Made in Japan". Same for Rinnai (if u see their promotional brochure) and LCD TVs.

bookmark.

bookmark.

to check for hollow u can actually use a small smooth surface pebble to tap. Don't use your knuckle otherwise u'll lose your hands at the end of the session.

$460 is plastic one (polyetherne), confirm not tempered glass. Tempered glass will be ard $560. My renovator initially quoted $560 for Austscreen (didn't state material). But when I say I want "tempered glass", he say cannot give me Austscreen but local brand having "same quality". I doubt his words. At least branded ones have a brand name to uphold, unlike brandless one, once broken no guarantee. cases of shattered shower screen is not unheard of.

homo tiles being porceline, most likely u can't remove the different shade, coz it's already abosrbed into the tiles. Unless u polish, but never heard of anyone polish homo tiles de.

some pple do just fit, leaving less than 5cm gap between fridge and cabinet. Some pple leave quite a big gap ~15-30cm.

depends on the user. Some pple have alots of things, so needed more cabinet space. some stuff like juicer, that u only use once in a blue moon, then u'll keep it there. only thing is that it's not worth doing that portion, in money sense, coz carpentry still count that portion by per feet run basis. even though that portion is smaller. and I choose not to do that portion also to let the fridge have all the ventilation

that metal strip should be stainless steel strip.

purpose of ballast: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast Personally I also prefer the screw-in type (technical name: E27 lampholder) instead the plug-in type. At least no need to use force to pull the bulb out which may in the process wip out the holder as well. points to note: - bulb colour (yellow, mid yellow, or white) - brightness - lampholder type - ballast or no ballast